LAST FALL, THE POP IDOL LADY GAGA wore an evening dress made entirely of meat to the MTV Video Music Awards. This attracted a lot of attention. “What was she thinking?” many people asked. “Is there a deep symbolism here that we are not parsing?” Lady Gaga would later say that it was in protest of Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell — a sentiment that, while earnest, didn’t make much sense. Meatpaper was puzzled in a different way. “Where did she get that meat dress?” we wondered. “Where do meat dresses come from, anyway?” And then we found just the gentleman to answer our questions.